I've relieved myself of the obligation to see anything in particular I'm here to discover the rhythms and quirks of each neighbourhood and maybe a few of its secrets. I want to see how different locations and accommodations affect my experience. I will start out living in opulence, ratchet down to living reasonably, and proceed to living cheaply - in three very distinct neighbourhoods. But this time I've decided to combine all three types of accommodation in one trip. I've stayed at high-end hotels, at family-run pensioni and in private apartments, and in each instance I've gotten a different feeling for the city. I'm deep into an experiment that is proving to be a pretty good idea. I'm between a drunk and a young couple kissing with gusto. I am eating gelato while sitting on the steps of the fountain in the middle of Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere in Rome. It's midnight, the church bell just rang.
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